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The physics of swash i.e. a layer of water that washes up on the beach after an incoming wave has broken is complicated and intriguing. It includes perplexed hydrodynamic and sediment transport events. In our paper we address to the…

Chemical Physics · Physics 2014-02-25 Ed. Bormashenko , A. Musin , R. Grynuov

Instabilities at interface of two stream granular flows have been reported in recent experiment [1] that breaking waves can form at the interface between two streams of identical grains flowing on an inclined plane downstream of a splitter…

Classical Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 Hua-Shu Dou , Boo Cheong Khoo , Nhan Phan-Thien

When turbulent flow is laden with negatively buoyant particles, their mean distribution over the direction of gravity can induce stable density gradients that penalize turbulent fluctuations. This effect is studied numerically for…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-05-28 Jake Langham , Andrew J. Hogg

This study explores experimentally the turbulent flow in a laboratory flume, interacting with waves propagated against the flow. It focuses a region of wave-blocking for which there is a streamwise location on the water surface, where the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-04-18 Debasmita Chatterjee , B. S. Mazumder , Subir Ghosh

We investigate steady granular surface flows in a rotating drum and demonstrate the existence of rigid clusters of grains embedded in the flowing layer. These clusters are fractal and their size is power-law distributed from the grain size…

Condensed Matter · Physics 2016-02-26 D. Bonamy , F. Daviaud , L. Laurent , M. Bonetti , J. P. Bouchaud

This paper considers two-dimensional stratified water waves propagating under the force of gravity over an impermeable flat bed and with a free surface. We prove the existence of a global continuum of classical solutions that are periodic…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-02-11 Samuel Walsh

Following the findings in \cite{wangsawijaya2020}, we re-examine the turbulent boundary layers developing over surfaces with spanwise heterogeneous roughness of various roughness wavelengths $0.32 \leq S/\overline{\delta} \leq 3.63$, where…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-03-01 Dea Daniella Wangsawijaya , Nicholas Hutchins

While several articles have been written on water waves on flows with constant vorticity, little is known about the extent to which a nonconstant vorticity affects the flow structure, such as the appearance of stagnation points. In order to…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-05-18 Marcelo V. Flamarion , Roberto Ribeiro-Jr

A bypass transition scenario in a wind-stress driven aqueous flow is analysed using a temporally developing boundary layer model with accelerating surface drift velocity. The parameters of the model are selected to mimic a wave-tank…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-12-22 Asim Önder , Philip L. -F. Liu , Wu-ting Tsai

The recent theoretical discovery of families of travelling wave solutions in pipe flow at Reynolds numbers lower than the transitional range naturally raises the question of their relevance to the turbulent transition process. Here a series…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-13 R. R. Kerswell , O. R. Tutty

We modify the approach of Burton and Toland [Comm. Pure Appl. Math. (2011)] to show the existence of periodic surface water waves with vorticity in order that it becomes suited to a stability analysis. This is achieved by enlarging the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2013-09-25 B. Buffoni , G. R. Burton

This work focuses on the interfacial dynamics with interfacial mass flux in the presence of acceleration and surface tension. We employ the general matrix method to find the fundamental solutions for the linearized boundary value problem…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-07-07 D. V. Ilyin , S. I. Abarzhi

Direct numerical simulations are conducted to study the receptivity and transition mechanisms in a solitary wave boundary layer developing over randomly organized wave-like bottom topography. The boundary layer flow shows a selective…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-02-24 Asim Önder , Philip L. -F. Liu

Nominal two-dimensional (2D) shear layers have been studied extensively, and their principal dynamics are well understood. In practical configurations, however, the behavior of such shear layers is affected by proximal surfaces. In this…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-01-26 Mitesh Thakor , Datta V Gaitonde , Yiyang Sun

We present laboratory experiments of surface wave turbulence excited by paddles in the deep water regime. The free surface is seeded with buoyant particles that are advected and dispersed by the flow. Positions and velocities of the…

An overlooked conservation law for near-inertial waves propagating in a steady background flow provides a new perspective on the concentration of these waves in regions of anticyclonic vorticity. The conservation law implies that this…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-07-19 Eric Danioux , Jacques Vanneste , Oliver Bühler

We discuss the scaling laws for the flow generated in a viscous fluid by a wave propagating along a solid boundary. This has applications to the displacement of tiny objects on solids, under the effect of progressive surface waves and for…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2013-05-21 Yves Pomeau

The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-03-12 Alex Ayet , Bertrand Chapron , Peter Sutherland , Gabriel G. Katul

Stability of coarse particles against gravity is an important issue in dense suspensions (fresh concrete, foodstuff, etc.). On the one hand, it is known that they are stable at rest when the interstitial paste has a high enough yield…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2012-06-11 Guillaume Ovarlez , François Bertrand , Philippe Coussot , Xavier Chateau

In this paper we consider a layer of incompressible viscous fluid lying above a flat periodic surface in a uniform gravitational field. The upper boundary of the fluid is free and evolves in time. We assume that a mass of surfactants…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-06-10 Chanwoo Kim , Ian Tice