Related papers: Tsunami generated by a granular collapse down a ro…
The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…
Solitary waves (SWs) are generated in monoatomic (homogeneous) lightly contacting spherical granules by an applied input force of any time-variation and intensity. We consider finite duration shock loads and focus on the transition regime…
We formulate a depth-averaged non-hydrostatic model to solve wave equations with generation by a moving bottom. This model is built upon the shallow water equations, which are widely used in tsunami wave modelling. An extension leads to two…
The weakly nonlinear dynamics of the free surface of a dielectric liquid in an electric field directed tangentially to the unperturbed boundary is investigated numerically. Within the framework of the strong field model, when the effects of…
The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…
We observe the emergence of strong vertical drafts in direct numerical simulations of the Boussinesq equations in a range of parameters of geophysical interest. These structures, which appear intermittently in space and time, generate…
In this paper, we use the approximation of shallow water waves (Margaritondo G 2005 Eur. J. Phys. 26 401) to understand the behaviour of a tsunami in a variable depth. We deduce the shallow water wave equation and the continuity equation…
We examine the dynamics of a thin film formed by a distributed liquid source on a vertical solid wall. The model is derived using the lubrication approximation and includes the effects of gravity, upward airflow and surface tension. When…
The long time behavior of an initial step resulting in a dispersive shock wave (DSW) for the one-dimensional isentropic Euler equations regularized by generic, third order dispersion is considered by use of Whitham averaging. Under modest…
The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…
The computation of long wave propagation through the ocean obviously depends on the initial condition. When the waves are generated by a moving bottom, a traditional approach consists in translating the ``frozen'' sea bed deformation to the…
In this paper we examine the flow generated by coupled surface and internal small-amplitude water waves in a two-fluid layer model, where we take the upper layer to be rotational (constant vorticity) and the lower layer to be irrotational.…
Shallow water waves are a striking example of nonlinear hydrodynamics, giving rise to phenomena such as tsunamis and undular waves. These dynamics are typically studied in hundreds-of-meter-long wave flumes. Here, we demonstrate a…
We investigate experimentally the statistical properties of a wind-generated wave field and the spontaneous formation of rogue waves in an annular flume. Unlike many experiments on rogue waves, where waves are mechanically generated, here…
This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
If an early matter phase of the Universe existed after inflation with the proper power spectrum, enhanced density perturbations can decouple from the Hubble flow, turn around and collapse. In contrast to what happens in a radiation…
The modeling of tsunami generation is an essential phase in understanding tsunamis. For tsunamis generated by underwater earthquakes, it involves the modeling of the sea bottom motion as well as the resulting motion of the water above it. A…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…
Instabilities at interface of two stream granular flows have been reported in recent experiment [1] that breaking waves can form at the interface between two streams of identical grains flowing on an inclined plane downstream of a splitter…