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Process of the nonlinear deformation of the shallow water wave in a basin of constant depth is studied. The characteristics of the first breaking are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave is…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-05-23 Narcisse Zahibo , Irina Didenkulova , Andrey Kurkin , Efim Pelinovsky

We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2012-07-11 L. H. Ying , Z. Zhuang , E. J. Heller , L. Kaplan

Several spatially continuous pedestrian dynamics models have been validated against empirical data. We try to reproduce the experimental fundamental diagram (velocity versus density) with simulations. In addition to this quantitative…

Physics and Society · Physics 2010-01-20 Andrea Portz , Armin Seyfried

The Peregrine soliton $Q(x,t)=e^{it}(1-\frac{4(1+2it)}{1+4x^2+4t^2})$ is an exact solution of the 1d focusing nonlinear schr\"{o}dinger equation (NLS) $iB_t+B_{xx}=-2|B|^2B$, having the feature that it decays to $e^{it}$ at the spatial and…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-07-15 Qingtang Su

Rogue waves are known to occur on the ocean surface leading to significant damage to marine installations and compromising ship safety. Understanding the physical mechanisms responsible for extreme wave focusing is crucial in order to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2024-08-14 Yuchen He , Amin Chabchoub

By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-09-14 Alexey V. Slunyaev , Anna V. Kokorina

Considering two-dimensional potential ideal flow with free surface and finite depth, we study the dynamics of small-amplitude and short-wavelength wavetrains propagating on the background of a steepening nonlinear wave. This can be seen as…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-08-08 Alexei A. Mailybaev , Andre Nachbin

Cellular suspensions such as dense bacterial flows exhibit a turbulence-like phase under certain conditions. We study this phenomenon of "active turbulence" statistically by using numerical tools. Following Wensink et al. [Proc. Natl. Acad.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-02-15 Martin James , Michael Wilczek

Considered here is a class of Boussinesq systems of Nwogu type. Such systems describe propagation of nonlinear and dispersive water waves of significant interest such as solitary and tsunami waves. The initial-boundary value problem on a…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-10-10 Dionyssios Mantzavinos , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

The impact forces generated by the impact of a breaking wave are poorly understood. These impulsive hydrodynamic loads to a ship's hull are of short duration relative to ship motions and buoyant wave loads and often result in extremely high…

We report water wave experiments performed in a long tank where we consider the evolution of nonlinear deep-water surface gravity waves with the envelope in the form of a large-scale rectangular barrier. Our experiments reveal that, for a…

In this paper, we numerically show and discuss the existence and characteristics of rogue heat and diffusion waves. More specifically, we use two different nonlinear heat (diffusion) models and show that modulation instability leads to the…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2020-07-15 Cihan Bayindir

Modulational instability (MI) is a fundamental phenomenon in the study of nonlinear dynamics, spanning diverse areas such as shallow water waves, optics, and ultracold atomic gases. In particular, the nonlinear stage of MI has recently been…

In this work we present an analytical and numerical study of rogue and solitary waves in a coupled one-dimensional nonlinear lattice that involves both axial and rotational degrees of freedom. Using a multiple-scale analysis we derive a…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2022-03-23 Yasuhiro Miyazawa , Christopher Chong , Panayotis G. Kevrekidis , Jinkyu Yang

High-frequency wave propagation in near-inertial wave shear has been considered fundamental in setting the spectral character of the oceanic internal wave continuum and for transporting energy to wave-breaking. We compare idealized ray…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-10-27 Kurt L Polzin , Yuri V Lvov

We use numerical methods to study the behaviour of the Serre equations in the presence of steep gradients because there are no known analytical solutions for these problems. In keeping with the literature we study a class of initial…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2017-06-28 Jordan Pitt , Christopher Zoppou , Stephen Roberts

We present an investigation of the fundamental physical processes involved in deep water wave breaking. Our motivation is to identify the underlying reason causing the deficiency of the eddy viscosity breaking model (EVBM) in predicting…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-02-02 Anatoliy Khait , Zhihua Ma

We consider localized solutions of variants of the semilinear curl-curl wave equation $s(x) \partial_t^2 U +\nabla\times\nabla\times U + q(x) U \pm V(x) |U|^{p-1} U = 0$ for $(x,t)\in \mathbb{R}^3\times\mathbb{R}$ and arbitrary $p>1$.…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-12-12 Michael Plum , Wolfgang Reichel

We study the existence and properties of rogue wave solutions in different nonlinear wave evolution models that are commonly used in optics and hydrodynamics. In particular, we consider Fokas-Lenells equation, the defocusing vector nolinear…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2015-06-23 Fabio Baronio , Shihua Chen , Philippe Grelu , Stefan Wabnitz , Matteo Conforti

We describe and analyze the mean transport due to transient progressive waves, including breaking waves. The waves are packets and are generated with a boundary-forced air-water two-phase Navier Stokes solver. The analysis is done in the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-10-02 Juan M. Restrepo , Jorge M. Ramirez
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