Related papers: Extreme wave runup on a vertical cliff
Research on the statistics of extreme events using deterministic wave group methods has largely been simplified to vessels at zero or constant speed and heading. In contrast, free-running vessels move with six degrees-of-freedom (6-DoF),…
The last decade has seen a significant increase in the number of studies devoted to wave turbulence. Many deal with water waves, as modeling of ocean waves has historically motivated the development of weak turbulence theory, which adresses…
Observations show that maximally-steep breaking water wave crest speeds are much slower than expected. We report a wave-crest slowdown mechanism generic to unsteady propagating deep water wave groups. Our fully nonlinear computations show…
Internal waves describe the (linear) response of an incompressible stably stratified fluid to small perturbations. The inclination of their group velocity with respect to the vertical is completely determined by their frequency. Therefore…
In this essay we give an overview on the problem of rogue or freak wave formation in the ocean. The matter of the phenomenon is a sporadic occurrence of unexpectedly high waves on the sea surface. These waves cause serious danger for…
Significant wave height forecasting is a key problem in ocean data analytics. This task affects several maritime operations, such as managing the passage of vessels or estimating the energy production from waves. In this work, we focus on…
Storm surges cause coastal inundations due to the setup of the water surface resulting from atmospheric pressure, surface winds and breaking waves. The latter is particularly difficult to be accounted for. For instance, it was observed that…
Large arrays of wave-absorbing structures could serve the double objective of coastal protection against erosion and clean, renewable electrical power production. In this work, the principle of an artificial canopy is explored, which…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
Recent studies have shown that, in coastal waters where water depth decreases significantly due to rapid bathymetric changes, the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) substantially increases the occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves.…
The interaction between near-wall turbulence and wall curvature is described for the incompressible flow in a plane channel with a small concave-convex-concave bump on the bottom wall, with height comparable to the wall-normal location of…
The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…
Numerically computed with high accuracy are periodic traveling waves at the free surface of a two dimensional, infinitely deep, and constant vorticity flow of an incompressible inviscid fluid, under gravity, without the effects of surface…
We report the first observation of extreme wave events (rogue waves) in parametrically driven capillary waves. Rogue waves are observed above a certain threshold in forcing. Above this threshold, frequency spectra broaden and develop…
We study the limiting behavior of large-amplitude standing waves on deep water using high-resolution numerical simulations in double and quadruple precision. While periodic traveling waves approach Stokes's sharply crested extreme wave in…
Using standard signal processing tools, we experimentally report that intermittency of wave turbulence on the surface of a fluid occurs even when two typical large-scale coherent structures (gravity wave breakings and bursts of capillary…
The impact forces generated by the impact of a breaking wave are poorly understood. These impulsive hydrodynamic loads to a ship's hull are of short duration relative to ship motions and buoyant wave loads and often result in extremely high…
By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…
One of the serious threats related to climate change is an increase in the number and severity of extreme weather events. A prominent example are hurricanes, which result from rising coastal temperatures. Such extreme weather events can…
Strong nonlinear effects are known to contribute to the wave run-up caused when a progressive wave impinges on a vertical surface piercing cylinder. The magnitude of the wave run-up is largely dependent on the coupling of the cylinder…