Related papers: Run-up amplification of transient long waves
The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…
The propagation and transformation of water waves over varying bathymetries is a subject of fundamental interest to ocean, coastal and harbor engineers. The specific bathymetry considered in this paper consists of one or two, naturally…
Dynamics of a charged relativistic particle in a uniform magnetic field and an obliquely propagating electrostatic shock wave is considered. The system is reduced to a two degrees of freedom Hamiltonian system with slow and fast variables.…
Long linear wave transformation in the basin of varying depth is studied for a case of a convex bottom profile in the framework of one-dimensional shallow water equation. The existence of travelling wave solutions in this geometry and the…
Rogue waves are solitary waves with extreme amplitudes, which appear to be a ubiquitous phenomenon in nonlinear wave propagation, with the requirement for a nonlinearity being their only unifying characteristics. While many mechanisms have…
Rogue waves are extreme and rare fluctuations of the wave field that have been discussed in many physical systems. Their presence substantially influences the statistical properties of an incoherent wave field. Their understanding is…
Direct numerical simulations are conducted to study the receptivity and transition mechanisms in a solitary wave boundary layer developing over randomly organized wave-like bottom topography. The boundary layer flow shows a selective…
Large arrays of wave-absorbing structures could serve the double objective of coastal protection against erosion and clean, renewable electrical power production. In this work, the principle of an artificial canopy is explored, which…
The estimate of individual wave run-up is especially important for tsunami warning and risk assessment as it allows to evaluate the inundation area. Here as a model of tsunami we use the long single wave of positive polarity. The period of…
The basic ideas of a homotopy-based multiple-variable method is proposed and applied to investigate the nonlinear interactions of periodic traveling waves. Mathematically, this method does not depend upon any small physical parameters at…
In this paper, we study the motion of the free surface of a body of fluid over a variable bottom, in a long wave asymptotic regime. We assume that the bottom of the fluid region can be described by a stationary random process $\beta(x,…
In the present paper we study the long wavelength and slow time scale behavior of a coasting beam in a resonator adopting a broad-band impedance model. Based on the renormalization group approach we derive a set of coupled evolution…
The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the…
Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…
We study coherent wave scattering through waveguides with a step-like surface disorder and find distinct enhancements in the reflection coefficients at well-defined resonance values. Based on detailed numerical and analytical calculations,…
Interfacial internal wave excitation in the wake of towed ships is studied experimentally in a quasi-two layer fluid. At a critical `resonant' towing velocity, whose value depends on the structure of the vertical density profile, the…
Existing theoretical results for attenuation of surface waves propagating on water of random fluctuating depth are shown to over predict the rate of decay due to the way in which ensemble averaging is performed. A revised approach is…
We develop a novel and powerful method of exactly calculating various transport characteristics of waves in one-dimensional random media with (or without) coherent absorption or amplification. Using the method, we compute the probability…
As an example for complex systems with extreme events we investigate ocean wave states exhibiting rogue waves. We present a statistical method of data analysis based on multi-point statistics which for the first time allows grasping extreme…
This work is directed towards investigating the fate of three-dimensional long perturbation waves in a plane incompressible wake. The analysis is posed as an initial-value problem in space. More specifically, input is made at an initial…