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Considered here are Boussinesq systems of equations of surface water wave theory over a variable bottom. A simplified such Boussinesq system is derived and solved numerically by the standard Galerkin-finite element method. We study by…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-09-15 Dimitrios Mitsotakis

The present study is devoted to the problem of tsunami wave generation. The main goal of this work is two-fold. First of all, we propose a simple and computationally inexpensive model for the description of the sea bed displacement during…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-01-13 Denys Dutykh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis , Xavier Gardeil , Frédéric Dias

We consider here different family of Boussinesq systems in two space dimensions. These systems approximate the three-dimensional Euler equations and consist of three coupled nonlinear dispersive wave equations that describe propagation of…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2012-07-10 Georges Sadaka

While the propagation of tsunamis is well understood and well simulated by numerical models, there are still a number of unanswered questions related to the generation of tsunamis or the subsequent inundation. We review some of the basic…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Frédéric Dias , Denys Dutykh , Laura O'Brien , Emiliano Renzi , Themistoklis Stefanakis

The long-term goal of this work is the development of high-fidelity simulation tools for dispersive tsunami propagation. A dispersive model is especially important for short wavelength phenomena such as an asteroid impact into the ocean,…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2021-10-05 Marsha J. Berger , Randall J. LeVeque

With an increasing emphasis on renewable energy resources, wave power technology is fast becoming a realistic solution. However, the recent tsunami in Japan was a harsh reminder of the ferocity of the ocean. It is known that tsunamis are…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Laura O'Brien , Paul Christodoulides , Emiliano Renzi , Denys Dutykh , Frédéric Dias

The movement of water waves is a topic of interest to researchers from different areas. While their propagation is described by Euler equations, there are instances where simplified models can also provide accurate approximations. A…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-12-27 L. G. Martins , M. V. Flamarion , R. Ribeiro-Jr

By using the Hugoniot curve in detonics as a Riemann invariant of a velocity-pressure model, we get a conservative hyperbolic system similar to the Euler equations. The only differences are the larger value of the adiabatic constant (=…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-05-20 Alain-Yves Le Roux

Indonesia is one of the world's most densely populated regions and lies among the epicenters of Earth's greatest natural hazards. Effectively reducing the disaster potential of these hazards through resource allocation and preparedness…

Geophysics · Physics 2024-04-23 Raelynn Wonnacott , Dallin Stewart , Jared P Whitehead , Ronald A Harris

We investigate the potential of an attention-based neural network architecture, the Senseiver, for sparse sensing in tsunami forecasting. Specifically, we focus on the Tsunami Data Assimilation Method, which generates forecasts from…

Machine Learning · Computer Science 2025-07-22 Edward McDugald , Arvind Mohan , Darren Engwirda , Agnese Marcato , Javier Santos

This study investigates the use of machine learning based mesh adaptivity, specifically mesh movement methods (UM2N), with depth integrated non-hydrostatic shallow water models. Motivation for this comes from the need for models which…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-03-09 Yezhang Li , Stephan C. Kramer , Matthew D. Piggott

Finite volume schemes are commonly used to construct approximate solutions to conservation laws. In this study we extend the framework of the finite volume methods to dispersive water wave models, in particular to Boussinesq type systems.…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Theodoros Katsaounis , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

We present a novel meshless tsunami propagation and inundation model. We discretize the nonlinear shallow-water equations using a well-balanced scheme relying on radial basis function based finite differences. The inundation model relies on…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-05-09 Rüdiger Brecht , Alexander Bihlo , Scott MacLachlan , Jörn Behrens

The goal of this work is to study waves interacting with partially immersed objects allowed to move freely in the vertical direction, and in a regime in which the propagation of the waves is described by the one dimensional…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-07-06 Geoffrey Beck , David Lannes , Lisl Weynans

The main reason for the generation of tsunamis is the deformation of the bottom of the ocean caused by an underwater earthquake. Usually, only the vertical bottom motion is taken into account while the horizontal co-seismic displacements…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-01-09 Denys Dutykh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis , Leonid Chubarov , Yuriy Shokin

Dispersive shock waves (DSW) are a salient feature of long water waves often observed in tidal bores and tsunami/meteotsunami contexts. Their interaction with bathymetry is poorly understood. The shoreline hazard from tsunamis and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-02-13 Alex. Sheremet , Victor I. Shrira

The risk posed by tsunami waves is currently modelled over bare-earth representations by tsunami models. The complex flows around buildings and structures are crucial to represent the true state of the tsunami wave elevation, speed and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-04-15 Jack Dignan , Joseph O'Connor , Serge Guillas

One of the most important aspects in tsunami studies is the wave behavior when it approaches the coast. Information on physical parameters that characterize waves is often limited because of the diffilculties in achieving accurate…

Finite volume schemes are commonly used to construct approximate solutions to conservation laws. In this study we extend the framework of the finite volume methods to dispersive water wave models, in particular to Boussinesq type systems.…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-01-13 Denys Dutykh , Theodoros Katsaounis , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

We study the propagation of two-dimensional tsunami waves triggered by a seaquake in the open sea in the presence of underlying wind-generated currents, corresponding to background flows of constant vorticity. A suitable scaling of the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-02-15 Frederick Moscatelli
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