Related papers: The growth of wind-waves in finite depth
We consider evolution of wave pulses with formation of dispersive shock waves in framework of fully nonlinear shallow-water equations. Situations of initial elevations or initial dips on the water surface are treated and motion of the…
We describe traveling waves in a basic model for three-dimensional water-wave dynamics in the weakly nonlinear long-wave regime. Small solutions that are periodic in the direction of translation (or orthogonal to it) form an…
We derive a generalized linear dispersion relation of waves in a strongly magnetized, compressible, homogeneous and isotropic quasineutral plasma. Starting from a two fluid model, describing distinguishable electron and ion fluids, we…
Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not…
The diffusional growth of wetting droplets on the boundary wall of a semi-infinite system is considered in different regions of a first-order wetting phase diagram. In a quasistationary approximation of the concentration field, a general…
A conceptual model relating the whitecap coverage to the bubble plume buoyancy is developed following the observation that the entrained bubble plume buoyancy constitutes a large portion of the breaking wave energy dissipation. The…
The propagation of water waves of finite depth and flat bottom is studied in the case when the depth is not small in comparison to the wavelength. This propagation regime is complementary to the long-wave regime described by the famous KdV…
Recent research shows that the surface wave energy dissipation, which is the vertical energy flux across the air-sea interface, can be calculated as the product of air density, reference wind speed cubed and an energy transfer coefficient…
In this paper we develop an existence theory for small amplitude, steady, two-dimensional water waves in the presence of wind in the air above. The presence of the wind is modeled by a Kelvin--Helmholtz type discontinuity across the…
A laminar flow of a thin layer of mud down an inclined plane under the action of gravity is considered. The instability of a film flow and the formation of finite amplitude waves are studied in the framework of both two-dimensional…
The detailed mathematical study of the recent paper by Sajjadi, Hunt and Drullion (2014) is pre- sented. The mathematical developement considered by them, for unsteady growing monochro- matic waves is also extended to Stokes waves. The…
A nonlinear stability analysis entirely in the Lagrangian frame is conducted, revealing the fundamental role of the wave-induced mean flow in modifying further wave growth and providing new insight into the classic problem of wave…
Global observations of ocean swell, from satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar data, are used to estimate the dissipation of swell energy for a number of storms. Swells can be very persistent with energy e-folding scales exceeding 20,000 km.…
Because wind-generated waves can propagate over large distances, wave spectra from a fixed point can record information about air-sea interactions in distant areas. In this study, the spectral wave climate is computed for a specific…
The unsteady power generation of a wind turbine translating in the streamwise direction is relevant to floating offshore wind turbines, kite-mounted airborne wind turbines, and other non-traditional wind-energy systems. To study this…
Accretion disks in close binary systems are subject to a tidally driven parametric instability which leads to the growth of internal waves near the outer edges of such disks (Goodman 1993). These waves are important in understanding the…
The evaluation and consideration of the mean flow in wave evolution equations are necessary for the accurate prediction of fluid particle trajectories under wave groups, with relevant implications in several domains, from the transport of…
A systematic and full description of the theory for a dissipation mechanism of wind wave energy in a spectral representation is given. As a basis of the theory, the fundamental is stated that the most general dissipation mechanism for wind…
Due to the multitude of scales present in realistic oceanic conditions, resolving the surface stress is computationally intensive, motivating modeling approaches. In this work, a dynamic wave drag model is developed for Large Eddy…
Global return values of marine wind speed and significant wave height are estimated from very large aggregates of archived ensemble forecasts at +240-h lead time. Long lead time ensures that the forecasts represent independent draws from…