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The present article is the third part of a series of papers devoted to the shallow water wave modelling. In this part, we investigate the derivation of some long wave models on a deformed sphere. We propose first a suitable for our purposes…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Denys Dutykh , Zinaida Fedotova

In this paper, we derive asymptotic models for the propagation of two and three-dimensional gravity waves at the free surface and the interface between two layers of immiscible fluids of different densities, over an uneven bottom. We assume…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-11-18 Vincent Duchene

Eulerian hydrodynamical simulations are a powerful and popular tool for modeling fluids in astrophysical systems. In this work, we critically examine recent claims that these methods violate Galilean invariance of the Euler equations. We…

Cosmology and Nongalactic Astrophysics · Physics 2011-06-03 Brant E. Robertson , Andrey V. Kravtsov , Nickolay Y. Gnedin , Tom Abel , Douglas H. Rudd

We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-22 David Lannes

The Euler's equations describe the motion of inviscid fluid. In the case of shallow water, when a perturbative asymtotic expansion of the Euler's equations is taken (to a certain order of smallness of the scale parameters), relations to…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-09-02 Rossen I. Ivanov

A generalized version of the $abcd$-Boussinesq class of systems is derived to accommodate variable bottom topography in two-dimensional space. This extension allows for the conservation of suitable energy functionals in some cases and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-06-19 Samer Israwi , Youssef Khalifeh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

In this work, a novel Boussinesq system is put forward. The system is naturally nonlinearly entropy/energy-stable, and is designed for problems with sharply varying bathymetric features. The system is flexible and allows tuning of the…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-02-21 Magnus Svärd , Henrik Kalisch

In this paper we consider the numerical solution of Boussinesq-Peregrine type systems by the application of the Galerkin finite element method. The structure of the Boussinesq systems is explained and certain alternative nonlinear and…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2020-07-15 Theodoros Katsaounis , Dimitrios Mitsotakis , George Sadaka

A new Hamiltonian formulation for the fully nonlinear water-wave problem over variable bathymetry is derived, using an exact, vertical series expansion of the velocity potential, in conjunction with Luke's variational principle. The…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-04-14 Christos Papoutsellis , Gerassimos Athanassoulis

This is a study of the Euler equations for free surface water waves in the case of varying bathymetry, considering the problem in the shallow water scaling regime. In the case of rapidly varying periodic bottom boundaries this is a problem…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-01-20 Walter Craig , David Lannes , Catherine Sulem

In this paper a three-parameter family of Boussinesq systems is studied. The systems have been proposed as models of the propagation of long internal waves along the interface of a two-layer system of fluids with rigid-lid condition for the…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2021-10-27 V. A. Dougalis , A. Duran , L. Saridaki

For surface gravity waves propagating in shallow water, we propose a variant of the fully nonlinear Serre-Green-Naghdi equations involving a free parameter that can be chosen to improve the dispersion properties. The novelty here consists…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Didier Clamond , Denys Dutykh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

In 1967 D. H. Peregrine proposed a Boussinesq-type model for long waves in shallow waters of varying depth. This prominent paper turned a new leaf in coastal hydrodynamics along with contributions by F. Serre, A. E. Green \& P. M. Naghdi…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Angel Durán , Denys Dutykh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

We study the behavior of shallow water waves propagating over bathymetry that varies periodically in one direction and is constant in the other. Plane waves traveling along the constant direction are known to evolve into solitary waves, due…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-05-21 David I. Ketcheson , Giovanni Russo

The irreducible representations of the extended Galilean group are used to derive infinite sets of symmetric and asymmetric second-order differential equations with constant coeffcients. All derived equations are local and their Lagrangians…

General Physics · Physics 2023-04-14 Z. E. Musielak

We derived here in a systematic way, and for a large class of scaling regimes, asymptotic models for the propagation of internal waves at the interface between two layers of immiscible fluids of different densities, under the rigid lid…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2007-12-27 Jerry L. Bona , David Lannes , Jean-Claude Saut

The present study describes, first, an efficient algorithm for computing capillary-gravity solitary waves solutions of the irrotational Euler equations with a free surface and, second, provides numerical evidences of the existence of an…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Didier Clamond , Denys Dutykh , Angel Duran

We consider a layer of an inviscid fluid with free surface which is subject to vertical high-frequency vibrations. We derive three asymptotic systems of equations that describe slowly evolving (in comparison with the vibration frequency)…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-11-22 Konstantin Ilin

In order to improve the frequency dispersion effects of irrotational shallow water models in coastal oceanography, several full dispersion versions of classical models were formally derived in the literature. The idea, coming from G.…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-21 Louis Emerald

This article concludes the study of (2+1)-dimensional nonlinear wave equations that can be derived in a model of an ideal fluid with irrotational motion. In the considered case of identical scaling of the $x,y$ variables, obtaining a…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2026-04-21 Piotr Rozmej , Anna Karczewska
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