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We have proposed a new method for solving the problem of ship waves excited on the surface of a non-viscous liquid by a submerged object that moves at a variable speed. As a first application of this method, we have obtained a new solution…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-08-17 Anrei V. Arzhannikov , Igor A. Kotelnikov

We study the horizontal dispersion of passive tracer particles on the free surface of gravity waves in deep water. For random linear waves with the JONSWAP spectrum, the Lagrangian particle trajectories are computed using an exact nonlinear…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-12 Mohammad Farazmand , Themistoklis Sapsis

We consider a linear system that consists of a linear wave equation on a horizontal hypersurface and a parabolic equation in the half space below. The model describes longitudinal elastic waves in organic monolayers at the water-air…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-27 Alexander Mielke , Roland R. Netz , Sina Zendehroud

We study wave turbulence in shallow water flows in numerical simulations using two different approximations: the shallow water model, and the Boussinesq model with weak dispersion. The equations for both models were solved using periodic…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-17 P. Clark di Leoni , P. J. Cobelli , P. D. Mininni

We examine a two-dimensional deep-water surface gravity wave packet generated by a pressure disturbance in the Lagrangian reference frame. The pressure disturbance has the form of a narrow-banded weakly nonlinear deep-water wave packet.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-02-25 Nick Pizzo , Gregory L. Wagner

Experimental results for passive tracer dispersion in the turbulent surface layer under stable conditions are presented. In this case, the dispersion of tracer particles is determined by the interplay of three mechanisms: relative…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2011-07-29 Alex Skvortsov , Milan Jamriska , Timothy C. DuBois

We investigate particle creation and entanglement structure in a dispersive model with subliminal dispersion relation. Assuming the step function spatial velocity profile of the background flow, mode functions for a massless scalar field is…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2023-05-24 Yuki Osawa , Yasusada Nambu

For general anisotropic linear elastic solids with smooth boundaries, Rayleigh-type surface waves are studied. Using spectral factorizations of matrix polynomials, a self-contained exposition of the case of a homogeneous half-space is given…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2014-05-12 Sönke Hansen

We derive scaling laws for the steady spectrum of wind excited waves, assuming two inviscid fluids (air and water) and no surface tension, an approximation valid at large speeds. In this limit there exists an unique (small) dimensionless…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2010-03-16 Yves Pomeau Yves , Martine Le Berre

We examine the dynamics of a thin film formed by a distributed liquid source on a vertical solid wall. The model is derived using the lubrication approximation and includes the effects of gravity, upward airflow and surface tension. When…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-07-01 Yadong Ruan , Ali Nadim , Marina Chugunova

In this paper, we describe a numerical method to solve numerically the weakly dispersive fully nonlinear Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) celebrated model. Namely, our scheme is based on reliable finite volume methods, proven to be very effective…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Denys Dutykh , Oleg Gusev , Nina Shokina

The present study focuses on direct numerical simulations of breaking waves generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The aim is to quantify the dynamics and kinematics in the breaking process, together with the air entrainment…

In this paper, we use the approximation of shallow water waves (Margaritondo G 2005 Eur. J. Phys. 26 401) to understand the behaviour of a tsunami in a variable depth. We deduce the shallow water wave equation and the continuity equation…

Physics Education · Physics 2009-11-11 O. Helene , M. T. Yamashita

A novel mathematical nonlinear theory of surface gravity waves in deep water is presented, in which analytical analysis of the classical nonlinear equations of fluid dynamics is performed under less restrictive assumptions than those…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-24 Ilia Mindlin

In weakly nonlinear dispersive wave systems, long-time dynamics are typically governed by time resonances, where wave phases evolve coherently due to exact frequency matching. Recent advances in spatio-temporal spectrum measurements,…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2025-12-09 Michal Shavit , Fabio Pusateri , Zhou Zhang , Yulin Pan , Davide Maestrini , Miguel Onorato , Jalal Shatah

Dispersive averaging effects are used to show that KdV equation with periodic boundary conditions possesses high frequency solutions which behave nearly linearly. Numerical simulations are presented which indicate high accuracy of this…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2016-11-25 M. B. Erdogan , N. Tzirakis , V. Zharnitsky

This paper aims at investigating the existence of localized stationary waves in the shallow subsurface whose constitutive behaviour is governed by the hyperbolic model, implying non-polynomial nonlinearity and strain-dependent shear…

A Hamiltonian model for the propagation of internal water waves interacting with surface waves, a current and an uneven bottom is examined. Using the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators, the water wave system is expressed in the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-09 Lili Fan , Ruonan Liu , Hongjun Gao

We present a physics based numerical model that estimates the seismic radiation generated by water sediment flows in gravel-bed rivers. The model reproduces the trajectories of individual particles, evaluates impact and rolling forces from…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2026-04-21 Sara Nicoletti , Giacomo Belli , Omar Morandi , Emanuele Marchetti

This paper presents a novel methodology for the direct numerical modeling and simulation of turbulent flows. The kinetic model equation is firstly extended to turbulent flow with the account of coupled evolution of kinetic, thermal, and…

Computational Physics · Physics 2025-03-11 Xiaojian Yang , Kun Xu