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Related papers: Water waves over a rough bottom in the shallow wat…

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In this paper, we study the motion of the free surface of a body of fluid over a variable bottom, in a long wave asymptotic regime. We assume that the bottom of the fluid region can be described by a stationary random process $\beta(x,…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-11-13 Anne de Bouard , Walter Craig , Oliver Díaz-Espinosa , Philippe Guyenne , Catherine Sulem

Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-09-08 V. P. Ruban

We consider Euler's equations for free surface waves traveling on a body of density stratified water in the scenario when gravity and surface tension act as restoring forces. The flow is continuously stratified, and the water layer is…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2019-12-02 Joachim Escher , Patrik Knopf , Christina Lienstromberg , Bogdan-Vasile Matioc

We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-22 David Lannes

We study the behavior of shallow water waves over periodically-varying bathymetry, based on the first-order hyperbolic Saint-Venant equations. Although solutions of this system are known to generally exhibit wave breaking, numerical…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-02-06 David I. Ketcheson , Lajos Lóczi , Giovanni Russo

We consider a shallow water model in a homogenization framework. For periodic topographies, Craig, Lannes and Sulem have established a consistency result under some non-resonance conditions. In the present contribution, we significantly…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-05-08 Antoine Gloria , David Lee

In this paper we study the well-posedness in Sobolev spaces of the incompressible Euler equations in an infinite strip delimited from below by a non-flat bottom and from above by a free-surface. We allow the presence of vorticity and…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-07-22 Théo Fradin

The problem of interest in this article are waves on a layer of finite depth governed by the Euler equations in the presence of gravity, surface tension, and vertical electric fields. Perturbation theory is used to identify canonical…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-01-13 Matthew Hunt , Emilian Parau , Jean-Marc Vanden-broeck , Demetrios Papageorgiou

The focus of our work is dispersive, second-order effective model describing the low-frequency wave motion in heterogeneous (e.g.~functionally-graded) media endowed with periodic microstructure. For this class of quasi-periodic medium…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2020-06-05 Danial P. Shahraki , Bojan B. Guzina

In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-05-02 Etienne Mémin , Long Li , Noé Lahaye , Gilles Tissot , Bertrand Chapron

This paper studies the classical water wave problem with vorticity described by the Euler equations with a free surface under the influence of gravity over a flat bottom. Based on fundamental work \cite{ConstantinStrauss}, we first obtain…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-07-12 Guowei Dai , Yong Zhang

We present a method for two-scale model derivation of the periodic homogenization of the one-dimensional wave equation in a bounded domain. It allows for analyzing the oscillations occurring on both microscopic and macroscopic scales. The…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2013-12-04 Thi Trang Nguyen , Michel Lenczner , Matthieu Brassart

We study free surface water waves in a 2-D symmetric triangular channel with sides that have a 45o slope. We develop models for small amplitude nonlinear waves, extending earlier studies that have considered the linearized problem. We see…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-08-31 P. Panayotaros , R. M. Vargas-Magaña

By numerical simulation of exact equations of motion (in terms of conformal variables) for planar non-stationary potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface over a strongly non-uniform bottom profile, the effect of nonlinear…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-02-10 Victor P. Ruban

We study traveling wave solutions of an equation for surface waves of moderate amplitude arising as a shallow water approximation of the Euler equations for inviscid, incompressible and homogenous fluids. We obtain solitary waves of…

Classical Analysis and ODEs · Mathematics 2013-12-06 Armengol Gasull , Anna Geyer

Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-02 Maria Bjørnestad , Henrik Kalisch

We focus here on the water waves problem for uneven bottoms in the long-wave regime, on an unbounded two or three-dimensional domain. In order to derive asymptotic models for this problem, we consider two different regimes of bottom…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2008-12-05 Florent Chazel

This is a study of two-dimensional steady periodic travelling waves on the surface of an infinitely deep irrotational ocean, when the top streamline is in contact with a membrane which has a nonlinear response to stretching and bending, and…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2008-05-06 Pietro Baldi , John F. Toland

The Euler's equations describe the motion of inviscid fluid. In the case of shallow water, when a perturbative asymtotic expansion of the Euler's equations is taken (to a certain order of smallness of the scale parameters), relations to…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-09-02 Rossen I. Ivanov

It is demonstrated that a standard coupled-mode theory can successfully describe weakly-nonlinear gravity water waves in Bragg resonance with a periodic one-dimensional topography. Analytical solutions for gap solitons provided by this…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2008-10-27 V. P. Ruban
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