Related papers: Local Runup Amplification By Resonant Wave Interac…
In this paper, we study the motion of the free surface of a body of fluid over a variable bottom, in a long wave asymptotic regime. We assume that the bottom of the fluid region can be described by a stationary random process $\beta(x,…
Linear optimal gains are computed for the subcritical two-dimensional separated boundary-layer flow past a bump. Very large optimal gain values are found, making it possible for small-amplitude noise to be strongly amplified and to…
With the aim of assessing internal wave-driven mixing in the ocean, we develop a new technique for direct numerical simulations of stratified turbulence. Since the spatial scale of oceanic internal gravity waves is typically much larger…
We study the resonant interaction of charged particles with a gravitational wave propagating in the non-empty interstellar space in the presence of a uniform magnetic field. It is found that this interaction can be cast in the form of a…
This work is an analytical investigation of the evolution of surface water waves in Miles and Jeffreys theories of wind wave interaction in water of finite depth. The present review is divided into two major parts. The first corresponds to…
In nonlinear dispersive evolution equations, the competing effects of nonlinearity and dispersion make a number of interesting phenomena possible. In the current work, the focus is on the numerical approximation of traveling-wave solutions…
The nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation is widely used as an approximate model for the evolution in time of the water wave envelope. In the context of simulating ocean waves, initial conditions are typically generated from a measured power…
In the present work, we revisit the so-called regularized short pulse equation (RSPE) and, in particular, explore the traveling wave solutions of this model. We theoretically analyze and numerically evolve two sets of such solutions. First,…
In this paper, using multiple scale analysis we derive a generalized mathematical model for amplitude evolution, and for calculating the energy exchange in resonant and near-resonant global triads consisting of weakly nonlinear internal…
Long linear wave transformation in the basin of varying depth is studied for a case of a convex bottom profile in the framework of one-dimensional shallow water equation. The existence of travelling wave solutions in this geometry and the…
An ideal contrast-enhanced ultrasound image should display microbubble-induced nonlinearities while avoiding wave propagation nonlinearities. One of the most successful ultrasound pulse sequences to disentangle these nonlinear effects…
In this work, we study seismic wave amplification in alluvial basins having 3D standard geometries through the Fast Multipole Boundary Element Method in the frequency domain. We investigate how much 3D amplification differs from the 1D…
It is shown that spatially periodic one-dimensional surface waves in shallow water behave almost linearly, provided large part of the energy is contained in sufficiently high frequencies. The amplitude is not required to be small (apart…
The Shallow Water Moment Equations (SWME) are an extension of the Shallow Water Equations (SWE) for improved modelling of free-surface flows. In contrast to the SWE, the SWME incorporate vertical velocity profile information. The SWME…
Strong nonlinear effects are known to contribute to the wave run-up caused when a progressive wave impinges on a vertical surface piercing cylinder. The magnitude of the wave run-up is largely dependent on the coupling of the cylinder…
In this presentation, we analytically derive the dispersion equation for surface waves traveling along reactive boundaries which are periodically modulated in time. In addition, we show numerical results for the dispersion curves and…
Interfacial internal wave excitation in the wake of towed ships is studied experimentally in a quasi-two layer fluid. At a critical `resonant' towing velocity, whose value depends on the structure of the vertical density profile, the…
Among hyperbolic Initial Boundary Value Problems (IBVP), those coming from a variational principle 'generically' admit linear surface waves, as was shown by Serre [J. Funct. Anal. 2006]. At the weakly nonlinear level, the behavior of…
We study deep water ocean wind-driven waves in strait, with wind directed orthogonally to the shore, through exact Hasselmann equation. Despite of "dissipative" shores - we do not include any reflection from the coast lines - we show that…
When a $(1+1)$-dimensional nonlinear PDE in real function $\eta(x,t)$ admits localized traveling solutions we can consider $L$ to be the average width of the envelope, $A$ the average value of the amplitude of the envelope, and $V$ the…