Related papers: Local Runup Amplification By Resonant Wave Interac…
Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies a significant increase in run-up…
The extreme characteristics of long wave run-up are studied in this paper. First we give a brief overview of the existing theory which is mainly based on the hodograph transformation (Carrier & Greenspan, 1958). Then, using numerical…
The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. The key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves,…
The problem of the sea wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. Key and novel moment here is the accounting of the asymmetric waves when the face slope steepness…
The practically important problem of the wave run-up is studied in this article in the framework of Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE). The main novelty consists in the usage of high order local asymptotic analytical solutions in the…
Dispersive effects during long wave run-up on a plane beach are studied. We take an advantage of experimental data collection of different wave types (single pulses, sinusoidal waves, bi-harmonic waves, and frequency modulated wave trains)…
The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for…
The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…
The problem of tsunami wave run-up on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. We present an analysis of the run-up characteristics for various shapes of the incoming symmetrical…
We discuss an idea whether spherical blast waves can amplify by a non-local resonant hydrodynamic mechanism inhomogeneities formed by turbulence or phase segregation in the interstellar medium. We consider the problem of a…
The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…
The shoaling of surface gravity waves has been acknowledged as a mechanism of rogue wave formation. This problem is generally reduced to water waves passing over a step, but non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered.…
Rogue waves (RWs) can form on the ocean surface due to quasi-four wave resonant interaction or superposition principle. Both mechanisms have been acutely studied. The first of the two is known as the nonlinear focusing mechanism and leads…
Small islands in the vicinity of the mainland are believed to offer protection from wind and waves and thus coastal communities have been developed in these areas. However, what happens when it comes to tsunamis is not clear. Will these…
Internal waves propagate obliquely through a stratified fluid with an angle that is fixed with respect to gravity. Upon reflection on a sloping bed, striking phenomena are expected to occur close to the slope. We present here laboratory…
Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…
Wave impact and run-up onto vertical obstacles are among the most important phenomena which must be taken into account in the design of coastal structures. From linear wave theory, we know that the wave amplitude on a vertical wall is twice…
In this article, we study the local existence of solutions for a wave equation with a nonlocal in time nonlinearity. Moreover, a blow-up results are proved under some conditions on the dimensional space, the initial data and the nonlinear…
Internal waves, or waves that propagate within a stratified fluid, may break and cause mixing. While each individual mixing event may be small, collectively, internal wave breaking drive processes in the ocean that are critical to…
The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the…