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Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2011-08-19 V. P. Ruban

The numerical simulation of the nonlinear dynamics of the sea surface has shown that the collision of two groups of relatively low waves with close but noncollinear wave vectors (two or three waves in each group with a steepness of about…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-02-12 V. P. Ruban

Formation of giant waves in sea states with two spectral maxima, centered at close wave vectors ${\bf k}_0\pm\Delta {\bf k}/2$ in the Fourier plane, is numerically simulated using the fully nonlinear model for long-crested water waves [V.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-13 V. P. Ruban

Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-02-07 Saulo Mendes , Yuchen He , Jérôme Kasparian , Amin Chabchoub

Extreme or rogue waves are large and unexpected waves appearing with higher probability than predicted by Gaussian statistics. Although their formation is explained by both linear and nonlinear wave propagation, nonlinearity has been…

Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban

The evolution of unidirectional nonlinear sea surface waves is calculated numerically by means of solutions of the Euler equations. The wave dynamics corresponds to quasi-equilibrium states characterized by JONSWAP spectra. The…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-17 Alexey Slunyaev , Anna Sergeeva , Ira Didenkulova

In this essay we give an overview on the problem of rogue or freak wave formation in the ocean. The matter of the phenomenon is a sporadic occurrence of unexpectedly high waves on the sea surface. These waves cause serious danger for…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-30 Alexey Slunyaev , Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky

The appearance of rogue waves in deep sea is investigated using the modified nonlinear Schr\"odinger (MNLS) equation in one spatial-dimension with random initial conditions that are assumed to be normally distributed, with a spectrum…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-01-24 Giovanni Dematteis , Tobias Grafke , Eric Vanden-Eijnden

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

We consider the problem of large wave prediction in two-dimensional water waves. Such waves form due to the synergistic effect of dispersive mixing of smaller wave groups and the action of localized nonlinear wave interactions that leads to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-04-26 Mohammad Farazmand , Themistoklis P. Sapsis

A rogue wave formation mechanism is proposed within the framework of a coupled nonlinear Schrodinger (CNLS) system corresponding to the interaction of two waves propagating in oblique directions in deep water. A rogue condition is…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2015-06-22 Mark J. Ablowitz , Theodoros P. Horikis

We show that rogue waves can be triggered naturally when a stable wave train enters a region of an opposing current flow. We demonstrate that the maximum amplitude of the rogue wave depends on the ratio between the current velocity, $ U_0…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2011-10-27 Miguel Onorato , Davide Proment , Alessandro Toffoli

Rogue waves are associated with various ocean processes, both at the coast and in the open ocean. In either zone, inhomogeneities in the wave field caused by shoaling, crossing seas or current interactions disturb wave statistics,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-06-11 Saulo Mendes , Ina Teutsch , Jérôme Kasparian

We report the first observation of extreme wave events (rogue waves) in parametrically driven capillary waves. Rogue waves are observed above a certain threshold in forcing. Above this threshold, frequency spectra broaden and develop…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2010-03-15 M. Shats , H. Punzmann , H. Xia

The issue of rogue wave lifetimes is addressed in this study, which helps to detail the general picture of this dangerous oceanic phenomenon. The direct numerical simulations of irregular wave ensembles are performed to obtain the complete…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-03-26 Anna Kokorina , Alexey Slunyaev

Large amplitude water waves on deep water has long been known in the sea faring community, and the cause of great concern for, e.g., oil platform constructions. The concept of such freak waves is nowadays, thanks to satellite and radar…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-13 A. Grönlund , B. Eliasson , M. Marklund

Rogue waves (RWs) can form on the ocean surface due to quasi-four wave resonant interaction or superposition principle. Both mechanisms have been acutely studied. The first of the two is known as the nonlinear focusing mechanism and leads…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-05-21 Yuchen He , Jinghua Wang , Jingsong He , Ye Li , Xingya Feng , Amin Chabchoub

Ocean rogue waves are large and suddenly appearing surface gravity waves, which may cause severe damage to ships and other maritime structures. Despite years of research, the exact origin of rogue waves is still disputed. Linear…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-07-30 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ivan Veselić , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

Numerically computed with high accuracy are periodic traveling waves at the free surface of a two dimensional, infinitely deep, and constant vorticity flow of an incompressible inviscid fluid, under gravity, without the effects of surface…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-01-25 Sergey A. Dyachenko , Vera Mikyoung Hur , Denis A. Silantyev
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