Related papers: Runup of tsunami waves in U-shaped bays
The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…
The problem of the sea wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. Key and novel moment here is the accounting of the asymmetric waves when the face slope steepness…
The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. The key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves,…
The problem of tsunami wave run-up on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. We present an analysis of the run-up characteristics for various shapes of the incoming symmetrical…
The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…
In this paper, we use the approximation of shallow water waves (Margaritondo G 2005 Eur. J. Phys. 26 401) to understand the behaviour of a tsunami in a variable depth. We deduce the shallow water wave equation and the continuity equation…
Long linear wave transformation in the basin of varying depth is studied for a case of a convex bottom profile in the framework of one-dimensional shallow water equation. The existence of travelling wave solutions in this geometry and the…
In the linear approximation, we study a one-dimensional problem of the reflectionless wave propagation on a surface of a shallow duct with the spatially varying water depth, duct width, and current. We show that both global and bounded…
In analogy with ocean waves running up towards the beach, shoaling of prechirped optical pulses may occur in the normal group-velocity dispersion regime of optical fibers. We present exact Riemann wave solutions of the optical shallow water…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
The estimate of individual wave run-up is especially important for tsunami warning and risk assessment as it allows to evaluate the inundation area. Here as a model of tsunami we use the long single wave of positive polarity. The period of…
The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for…
We study the propagation of two-dimensional tsunami waves triggered by a seaquake in the open sea in the presence of underlying wind-generated currents, corresponding to background flows of constant vorticity. A suitable scaling of the…
Energy transmission over long distances by waves is a key mechanism for many natural processes. This possibility arises when an inhomogeneous medium is arranged in such a manner that it enables a certain type of wave to propagate with…
Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…
In the vast literature on tsunami research, few articles have been devoted to energy issues. A theoretical investigation on the energy of waves generated by bottom motion is performed here. We start with the full incompressible Euler…
While the propagation of tsunamis is well understood and well simulated by numerical models, there are still a number of unanswered questions related to the generation of tsunamis or the subsequent inundation. We review some of the basic…
This paper addresses long waves on the water surface. It is assumed that initially the water surface has not yet been displaced from its mean level, but the velocity field has already become different from zero. This means that the motion…
We consider the propagation of surface water waves in a straight planar channel perturbed at the bottom by several thin curved tunnels and wells. We propose a method to construct non reflecting underwater topographies of this type at an…
Landslides plunging into lakes and reservoirs can result in extreme wave runup at shores. This phenomenon has claimed lives and caused damage to near-shore properties. Landslide tsunamis in lakes are different from typical earthquake…