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The lowest order sigma-transformed momentum equation given by Mellor (J. Phys. Oceangr. 2003) takes into account a phase-averaged wave forcing based on Airy wave theory. This equation is shown to be generally inconsistent due to inadequate…

Classical Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 Fabrice Ardhuin , Alastair D. Jenkins , Kostas Belibassakis

The generalized Langrangian mean theory provides exact equations for general wave-turbulence-mean flow interactions in three dimensions. For practical applications, these equations must be closed by specifying the wave forcing terms. Here…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2009-11-13 Fabrice Ardhuin , Nicolas Rascle , Kostas Belibassakis

A basic shallow water system with variable topography is analyzed from the point of view of a Lagrangian derivation of momentum, energy, and pseudomomentum balances. A two-dimensional action and associated momentum equation are derived. The…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-03-07 J. A. Hanna

This manuscript concerns the dynamical interactions between wind and water waves, which are characterized through two-phase free interface problems for the Euler equations. We provide a comprehensive derivation on the linearized problems of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-08-04 Changfeng Gui , Sicheng Liu

Nonlinear interaction and breaking of internal ocean waves are responsible for much of the interior ocean mixing, affecting ocean carbon storage and the global overturning circulation. These interactions may affect the observed Garrett-Munk…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2025-12-16 Golan Bel , Eli Tziperman

Wind-wave interaction involves wind forcing on wave surface and wave effects on the turbulent wind structures, which essentially influences the wind and wave loading on structures. Existing research on wind-wave interaction modeling ignores…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-06-07 Tianqi Ma , Chao Sun

The wave kinetic equation has become an important tool in different fields of physics. In particular, for surface gravity waves, it is the backbone of wave forecasting models. Its derivation is based on the Hamiltonian dynamics of surface…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2025-03-10 Davide Maestrini , Daniele Noto , Giovanni Dematteis , Miguel Onorato

This work investigates the topical problem of balancing the shallow water equations over the bottom steps of different heights. The current approaches in the literature are essentially based on mathematical analysis of the hyperbolic system…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-12-12 Alessandro Valiani , Valerio Caleffi

Triad resonances for gravity waves propagating in opposite direction with respect to uniform current are introduced. They are produced by multivalued and anisotropic dispersion and occur even in deep water. In contrast, existing literature…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-07-15 David Kouskoulas , Yaron Toledo

The authors of the paper "The third-order perturbed Korteweg-de Vries equation for shallow water waves with a non-flat bottom" [1] claim that they have derived the full third order perturbed KdV equation for the case of uneven bottom. We…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-04-06 Piotr Rozmej , Anna Karczewska

This article introduces a physically realistic model for explaining how electromagnetic waves can be internally generated, propagate and interact in strongly magnetized plasmas or in nuclear magnetic resonance experiments. It studies high…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-09-04 Remi Carles , Christophe Cheverry

In classical continuum physics, a wave is a mechanical disturbance. Whether the disturbance is stationary or traveling and whether it is caused by the motion of atoms and molecules or the vibration of a lattice structure, a wave can be…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-04-14 Ivan C. Christov

The hydrodynamic equation derived by N-particle statistical mechanics is investigated. This is an attempt to provide additional information concerning the closure problem of turbulence theory. The equation is interpreted as mean velocity…

General Physics · Physics 2017-09-22 Juergen Piest

Three dimensional nonlinear wave interactions have been analytically described. The procedure under interest can be applied to three dimensional quasilinear systems of first order, whose hydrodynamic reductions are homogeneous…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2016-12-02 C. Curró , N. Manganaro , M. V. Pavlov

This article concerns the water wave problem in a three-dimensional domain of infinite depth and examines the modulational regime for weakly nonlinear wavetrains. We use the method of normal form transformations near the equilibrium state…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-08-25 Philippe Guyenne , Adilbek Kairzhan , Catherine Sulem

Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not…

It has long been conjectured that, in three dimensional turbulence, velocity modes at scales larger than the forcing scale follow equilibrium dynamics. Recent numerical and experimental evidence show that such modes share the same mean…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-11-27 Alexandros Alexakis , Sergio Chibbaro , Guillaume Michel

We present a series of three-dimensional discrete Boltzmann (DB) models for compressible flows in and out of equilibrium. The key formulating technique is the construction of discrete equilibrium distribution function through inversely…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-03-06 Yanbiao Gan , Aiguo Xu , Guangcai Zhang , Huilin Lai

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-19 Alan C. Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Calin I. Martin , Michail D. Todorov

Two-dimensional potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface are considered in situations when shape of the bottom depends on time due to external reasons. Exact nonlinear equations describing surface waves in terms of the so…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-10 V. P. Ruban
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