Related papers: Near-linear Dynamics for Shallow Water Waves
In this work we study the generation of water waves by an underwater sliding mass. The wave dynamics are assumed to fell into the shallow water regime. However, the characteristic wavelength of the free surface motion is generally smaller…
Two-dimensional periodic surface waves propagating under the combined influence of gravity and surface tension on water of finite depth are considered. Within the framework of small-amplitude waves, we find the exact solutions of the…
In this work we prove that the shallow water flow, subject to strong wind forcing and linearized around an adequate stationary profile, develops for large times closed trajectories due to the propagation of Rossby waves, while Poincar\'e…
The purpose of this article is to clarify the Cauchy theory of the water waves equations as well in terms of regularity indexes for the initial conditions as for the smoothness of the bottom of the domain (namely no regularity assumption is…
This study examines whether the dispersion of passive particles at the free surface of a generic (nonturbulent) shallow flow can reliably represent the behavior of depth-keeping particles below the surface. A shallow configuration…
The coupled motion is investigated for a mechanical system consisting of water and a body freely floating in it. Water occupies either a half-space or a layer of constant depth into which an infinitely long surface-piercing cylinder is…
We consider two-dimensional periodic gravity water waves with constant nonzero vorticity $\gamma$, in infinite depth and with periodic boundary conditions. We prove that, if the characteristic wave number $\frac{\gamma^2}{g}$ is rational,…
Existing theoretical results for attenuation of surface waves propagating on water of random fluctuating depth are shown to over predict the rate of decay due to the way in which ensemble averaging is performed. A revised approach is…
For nonlinear dispersive systems, the nonlinear Schr\"odinger (NLS) equation can usually be derived as a formal approximation equation describing slow spatial and temporal modulations of the envelope of a spatially and temporally…
The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…
The coupled motion is investigated for a mechanical system consisting of water and a body freely floating in it. Water occupies either a half-space or a layer of constant depth into which an infinitely long surface-piercing cylinder is…
Propagating slow magneto-acoustic waves are often observed in polar plumes and active region fan loops. The observed periodicities of these waves range from a few minutes to few tens of minutes and their amplitudes were found to decay…
In nonlinear systems, small perturbations are conventionally attributed to negligible nonlinearity, justifying linear approximations. Here, we uncover a notable exception to this paradigm in an electrokinetic (EK) flow. Using a novel dual…
We describe the theory and present numerical evidence for a new type of nonlinear resonant interaction between gravity waves on the surface of deep water. The resonance constitutes a generalisation of the usual 'exact' resonance as we show…
An exact solution of the collisionless time-dependent Vlasov equation is found for the first time. By means of this solution the behavior of the Langmuir waves in the nonlinear stage is considered. The analysis is restricted by the…
We study wave-current interactions in two-dimensional water flows of constant vorticity over a flat bed. For large-amplitude periodic traveling waves that propagate at the water surface in the same direction as the underlying current…
We study the excitation and damping of tides in close binary systems, accounting for the leading order nonlinear corrections to linear tidal theory. These nonlinear corrections include two distinct effects: three-mode nonlinear interactions…
We discuss the scaling laws for the flow generated in a viscous fluid by a wave propagating along a solid boundary. This has applications to the displacement of tiny objects on solids, under the effect of progressive surface waves and for…
We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…
We present the research of ocean surface wind waves excitation in non-homogeneous situations, on the example of deep water strait in presence of the constant wind, blowing perpendicular to the coastal line. The used statistical wave model…