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Related papers: Near-linear Dynamics for Shallow Water Waves

200 papers

Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban

A novel mathematical nonlinear theory of surface gravity waves in deep water is presented, in which analytical analysis of the classical nonlinear equations of fluid dynamics is performed under less restrictive assumptions than those…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-24 Ilia Mindlin

We study free surface water waves in a 2-D symmetric triangular channel with sides that have a 45o slope. We develop models for small amplitude nonlinear waves, extending earlier studies that have considered the linearized problem. We see…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-08-31 P. Panayotaros , R. M. Vargas-Magaña

Solitary-like surface waves that originate from the spatio-temporal evolution of falling liquid films have been the subject of theoretical and experimental research due to their unique properties that are not readily observed in the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-01-10 Ivan S. Maksymov , Andrey Pototsky

Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-09-08 V. P. Ruban

We study the flow of water waves over bathymetry that varies periodically along one direction. We derive a linearized, homogenized model and show that the periodic bathymetry induces an effective dispersion, distinct from the dispersion…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-07-01 Manuel Quezada de Luna , David I. Ketcheson

The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-11-20 Jie Zhang , Saulo Mendes , Michel Benoit , Jérôme Kasparian

We consider a layer of an inviscid fluid with free surface which is subject to vertical high-frequency vibrations. We derive three asymptotic systems of equations that describe slowly evolving (in comparison with the vibration frequency)…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-11-22 Konstantin Ilin

We consider a control system describing the interaction of water waves with a partially immersed rigid body constraint to move only in the vertical direction. The fluid is modeled by the shallow water equations. The control signal is a…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-08-12 Pei Su , Marius Tucsnak

Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2009-11-11 Irina Didenkulova , Narcisse Zahibo , Andrey Kurkin , Efim Pelinovsky

In one-dimensional anharmonic lattices, we construct nonlinear standing waves (SWs) reducing to harmonic SWs at small amplitude. For SWs with spatial periodicity incommensurate with the lattice period, a transition by breaking of…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2009-10-31 Anna Maria Morgante , Magnus Johansson , Georgios Kopidakis , Serge Aubry

Spiral wave solutions are found in linear and weakly nonlinear irrotational water wave equations. These unsteady spiral waves evolve from suitable initial conditions; they are not induced by external forcing. In the linear case, a long-time…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-10-27 Mark J. Ablowitz , Justin T. Cole , Sean D. Nixon

We experimentally study linear and nonlinear waves on the surface of a fluid covered by an elastic sheet where both tension and flexural waves take place. An optical method is used to obtain the full space-time wave field, and the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-02-10 Luc Deike , Jean-Claude Bacri , Eric Falcon

Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-02 Maria Bjørnestad , Henrik Kalisch

We report experimental observations of two canonical surface wave patterns --- ship waves and ring waves --- skewed by sub-surface shear, thus confirming effects predicted by recent theory. Observed ring waves on a still surface with…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-08-12 Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Eirik Æsøy , Simen Å. Ellingsen

We derive the nonlinear fractional surface wave equation that governs compression waves at an interface that is coupled to a viscous bulk medium. The fractional character of the differential equation comes from the fact that the effective…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-11-29 Julian Kappler , Shamit Shrivastava , Matthias F. Schneider , Roland R. Netz

We study the exact controllability for spatially periodic water waves with surface tension, by localized exterior pressures applied to free surfaces. We prove that in any dimension, the exact controllability holds within arbitrarily short…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-02-07 Hui Zhu

Direct phase-resolved simulations are performed to investigate the propagation and scattering of nonlinear ocean waves in fragmented sea ice. The numerical model solves the full time-dependent equations for nonlinear potential flow coupled…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-30 Boyang Xu , Philippe Guyenne

We study the nonlinear interactions of waves with a doubled-peaked power spectrum in shallow water. The starting point is the prototypical equation for nonlinear uni-directional waves in shallow water, i.e. the Korteweg de Vries equation.…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-07 M. Onorato , D. Ambrosi , A. R. Osborne , M. Serio

This thesis is concerned with dynamics of conservative nonlinear waves on bounded domains. In general, there are two scenarios of evolution. Either the solution behaves in an oscillatory, quasiperiodic manner or the nonlinear effects cause…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2016-03-04 Maciej Maliborski