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We present a numerical study of essentially nonlinear dynamics of surface gravity waves on deep water with constant vorticity using governing equations in conformal coordinates. The dispersion relation of surface gravity waves on shear flow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-01 A. S. Dosaev , M. I. Shishina , Yu. I. Troitskaya

We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-22 David Lannes

We consider 2D free surface gravity waves in prismatic channels with bathymetric variations uniquely in the transverse direction. Starting from the Saint-Venant equations (shallow water equations) we derive a 1D transverse averaged model…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-03-11 Sergey Gavrilyuk , Mario Ricchiuto

We establish the full justification of a "Whitham-Green-Naghdi" system modeling the propagation of surface gravity waves with bathymetry in the shallow water regime. It is an asymptotic model of the water waves equations with the same…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-06-02 Louis Emerald , Martin Oen Paulsen

Triad resonances for gravity waves propagating in opposite direction with respect to uniform current are introduced. They are produced by multivalued and anisotropic dispersion and occur even in deep water. In contrast, existing literature…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-07-15 David Kouskoulas , Yaron Toledo

Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-02 Maria Bjørnestad , Henrik Kalisch

We develop structure-preserving numerical methods for the Serre-Green-Naghdi equations, a model for weakly dispersive free-surface waves. We consider both the classical form, requiring the inversion of a non-linear elliptic operator, and a…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2026-04-08 Hendrik Ranocha , Mario Ricchiuto

We study here Green-Naghdi type equations (also called fully nonlinear Boussinesq, or Serre equations) modeling the propagation of large amplitude waves in shallow water. The novelty here is that we allow for a general vorticity, hereby…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2015-06-22 Angel Castro , David Lannes

We derive a new hyperbolic model describing the propagation of internal waves in a stratified shallow water with a non-hydrostatic pressure distribution. The construction of the hyperbolic model is based on the use of additional…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-05-28 Alexander Chesnokov , Valery Liapidevskii

This paper presents the Smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) model to examine the propagation of a regular and irregular waves. The SPH method is a grid-less Lagrangian approach which is capable of good accuracy in tracking large…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 D. De Padova , R. A. Dalrymple , M. Mossa , A. F. Petrillo

In the present study, we propose a modified version of the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (Saint-Venant or NSWE) for irrotational surface waves in the case when the bottom undergoes some significant variations in space and time. The…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Didier Clamond

This paper presents an extended version of the celebrated Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) system. This extension is based on the well-known Bona-Smith-Nwogu trick which aims to improve the linear dispersion properties. We show that in the fully…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Didier Clamond , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

In this paper we study two multidimensional nonlinear dispersive systems: the Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) equations describing dispersive shallow water flows, and Iordanskii-Kogarko-Wijngaarden (IKW) equations describing fluids containing…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-02-01 Sergey Tkachenko , Sergey Gavrilyuk , Jacques Massoni

We consider a layer of an inviscid fluid with free surface which is subject to vertical high-frequency vibrations. We derive three asymptotic systems of equations that describe slowly evolving (in comparison with the vibration frequency)…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-11-22 Konstantin Ilin

A novel mathematical nonlinear theory of surface gravity waves in deep water is presented, in which analytical analysis of the classical nonlinear equations of fluid dynamics is performed under less restrictive assumptions than those…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-24 Ilia Mindlin

We consider here the $1D $ Green-Naghdi equations that are commonly used in coastal oceanography to describe the propagation of large amplitude surface waves. We show that the solution of the Green-Naghdi equations can be constructed by a…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-09-14 Samer Israwi

In this study, we discuss an approximate set of equations describing water wave propagating in deep water. These generalized Klein-Gordon (gKG) equations possess a variational formulation, as well as a canonical Hamiltonian and…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Marx Chhay , Didier Clamond

The purpose of this article is to clarify the Cauchy theory of the water waves equations as well in terms of regularity indexes for the initial conditions as for the smoothness of the bottom of the domain (namely no regularity assumption is…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2019-12-19 Thomas Alazard , Nicolas Burq , Claude Zuily

A detailed numerical study of solutions to the Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) equations in 2D with vanishing curl of the velocity field is presented. The transverse stability of line solitary waves, 1D solitary waves being exact solutions of the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-03-04 S. Gavrilyuk , C. Klein

We compute the linearised dispersion relations of shear waves, heat waves, and sound waves in relativistic ''matter+radiation'' fluids with grey absorption opacities. This is done by solving radiation hydrodynamics perturbatively in the…

High Energy Astrophysical Phenomena · Physics 2025-01-22 Lorenzo Gavassino