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In geophysical environments, wave motions that are shaped by the action of gravity and global rotation bear the name of gravito-inertial waves. We present a geometrical description of gravito-inertial surface waves, which are low-frequency…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-04-21 Yves Colin de Verdière , Jérémie Vidal

Coastal erosion describes the displacement of land caused by destructive sea waves, currents or tides. Major efforts have been made to mitigate these effects using groins, breakwaters and various other structures. We try to address this…

Optimization and Control · Mathematics 2022-09-16 Luka Schlegel , Volker Schulz

We explore the existence and dynamical generation of rogue waves (RWs) within a one dimensional quantum droplet bearing environment. RWs are computed by deploying a spacetime fixed point scheme to the relevant extended Gross Pitaevskii…

In this work, we explore the rogue wave patterns in the coupled Fokas-Lenells equation by using the Darboux transformation. We demonstrate that when one of the internal parameters is large enough, the general high-order rogue wave solutions…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2023-07-06 Liming Ling , Huajie Su

In this paper, we propose a new method to forecast the drift of objects in near coastal ocean on a period of several weeks. The proposed approach consists in estimating the probability of events linked to the drift using Monte Carlo…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2007-05-23 Pierre Ailliot , Emmanuel Frenod , Valerie Monbet

Solutions to the stochastic wave equation on the unit sphere are approximated by spectral methods. Strong, weak, and almost sure convergence rates for the proposed numerical schemes are provided and shown to depend only on the smoothness of…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-12-06 David Cohen , Annika Lang

The problem of construction of the surfaces with given sets of the points with horizontal tangential planes is considered. Such considerations are of interest in the problem of computer simulations of the waved ocean surfaces.

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2011-03-02 Ivan P Smirnov , Vera G Burdukovskaya

This article introduces a new geophysical theory, in the form of a single simple partial integro-differential equation, to explain how frictional abrasion alone of a stone on a planar beach can lead to the oval shapes observed empirically.…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2021-07-06 Theodore P. Hill

Resolvent analysis is a powerful tool for modeling and analyzing turbulent flows and in particular provides an approximation of coherent flow structures. Despite recent algorithmic advances, computing resolvent modes for flows with more…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-09-21 Aaron Towne , Georgios Rigas , Ethan Pickering , Tim Colonius

The paper considers the application of two numerical models to simulate the evolution of steep breaking waves. The first one is a Lagrangian wave model based on equations of motion of an inviscid fluid in Lagrangian coordinates. A method…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-06-06 Eugeny Buldakov , Pablo Higuera , Dimitris Stagonas

The generalized Langrangian mean theory provides exact equations for general wave-turbulence-mean flow interactions in three dimensions. For practical applications, these equations must be closed by specifying the wave forcing terms. Here…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2009-11-13 Fabrice Ardhuin , Nicolas Rascle , Kostas Belibassakis

The kinetic theory of soliton gases (SG) is used to develop a solvable model for wave-mean field interaction in integrable turbulence. The waves are stochastic soliton ensembles that scatter off a critically dense SG or soliton condensate…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2025-08-18 T. Congy , G. A. El , M. A. Hoefer

The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-07-20 Eric Danioux , Jacques Vanneste

Powerful rogue ocean waves have been objects of fascination for centuries. Elusive and awe-inspiring, with the ability to inflict catastrophic damage, rogue waves remain unpredictable and imperfectly understood. To gain further insight into…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2022-02-23 Paul Johns , Peter Palffy-Muhoray , Jake Fontana

In this work, we develop a modelling framework for granular flows based on the shallow water moment equations on inclined planes. Under the assumption of a polynomial expansion of the velocity field, the model extends the classical shallow…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2025-12-18 Julio Careaga , Qian Huang , Julian Koellermeier

We present a numerical study of the evolution dynamics of ``optical rogue waves'', statistically-rare extreme red-shifted soliton pulses arising from supercontinuum generation in photonic crystal fiber [D. R. Solli et al. Nature Vol. 450,…

Optics · Physics 2009-11-13 John. M. Dudley , Goery Genty , Benjamin J. Eggleton

This paper considers the problem of water wave scattering by a rectangular anisotropic elastic plate mounted on the ocean surface, with either free, clamped or simply-supported edges. The problem is obtained as an expansion over the dry…

In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-05-02 Etienne Mémin , Long Li , Noé Lahaye , Gilles Tissot , Bertrand Chapron

In this chapter, we illustrate the advantage of variational principles for modeling water waves from an elementary practical viewpoint. The method is based on a `relaxed' variational principle, i.e., on a Lagrangian involving as many…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-12-16 Didier Clamond , Denys Dutykh

In this short note, we derive a system of two nonlocal equations for the water-wave problem following the work of [AFM06]. Specifically, we consider a fluid with a one-dimensional free surface for an irrotational fluid both with, and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-08-04 KL Oliveras