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Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-02 Maria Bjørnestad , Henrik Kalisch

We consider the linear water-wave problem in a periodic channel which consists of infinitely many identical containers connected with apertures of width $\epsilon$. Motivated by applications to surface wave propagation phenomena, we study…

Spectral Theory · Mathematics 2013-12-19 Fedor Bakharev , Keijo Ruotsalainen , Jari Taskinen

This paper advances the development of the conformally mapped model for accurate simulation of two-dimensional water waves, here with emphasis on mapping boundaries that represent piston- and flap-type wavemakers. With this, a complete…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-05-20 Andreas Holm Akselsen

Based on fundamental properties of light scattering by a particle we reveal the existence of the ultimate upper limit for the light absorption by any partial mode. First, we obtain this result for scattering of a plane wave by a symmetric…

Optics · Physics 2018-01-24 Andrey E. Miroshnichenko , Michael I. Tribelsky

Ocean wind waves are a fundamental manifestation of complex dynamics in geophysical fluid systems, characterized by a rich interplay between dispersion and nonlinearity. While linear wave theory provides a first-order description of wave…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-04-20 Davide Maestrini , Giovanni Dematteis , Alvise Benetazzo , Miguel Onorato

Motivated by the recently proposed parallel orbital-updating approach in real space method, we propose a parallel orbital-updating based plane-wave basis method for electronic structure calculations, for solving the corresponding eigenvalue…

Computational Physics · Physics 2017-09-13 Yan Pan , Xiaoying Dai , Stefano de Gironcoli , Xin-Gao Gong , Gian-Marco Rignanese , Aihui Zhou

The performance of basis sets made of numerical atomic orbitals is explored in density-functional calculations of solids and molecules. With the aim of optimizing basis quality while maintaining strict localization of the orbitals, as…

Materials Science · Physics 2009-11-07 Javier Junquera , Oscar Paz , Daniel Sanchez-Portal , Emilio Artacho

In a water-air optical wireless communication (OWC) channel, dynamic ocean waves may significantly deflect the light beam from its original direction, thus deteriorating the communication performance. In this letter, a beam tracking system…

Signal Processing · Electrical Eng. & Systems 2022-01-12 Yujie Di , Yingjie Shao , Lian-Kuan Chen

A simple, intuitive, and low-cost setup for generating and measuring capillary waves is presented enabling a precise determination of the dispersion relation for a cylindrical water jet. By setting the phase velocity and measuring the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-11-06 Wout M. Goesaert , Paul S. W. M. Logman

The fundamental role of line geometry in the study of wave motion is first introduced in the general context by way of the tangent planes to the instantaneous wave surfaces, in which it is first observed that the possible frequency-wave…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2013-11-27 D. H. Delphenich

We suggest scattering experiments which implement the concept of ``protective measurements'' allowing the measurement of the complete wave function even when only one quantum system (rather than an ensemble) is available. Such scattering…

Quantum Physics · Physics 2009-10-30 S. Nussinov

In this paper we present the comparison of experiments and numerical simulations for bubble cutting by a wire. The air bubble is surrounded by water. In the experimental setup an air bubble is injected on the bottom of a water column. When…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-14 Mark W. Hlawitschka , Sudarshan Tiwari , James Kwizera , Axel Klar , Hans-Joerg Bart

Recent advances regarding the interplay between ab initio calculations and metrology are reviewed, with particular emphasis on gas-based techniques used for temperature and pressure measurements. Since roughly 2010, several thermophysical…

The proposed method aims to approximate a solution of a fluid-fluid interaction problem in case of low viscosities. The nonlinear interface condition on the joint boundary allows for this problem to be viewed as a simplified version of the…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2020-04-22 Mustafa Aggul , Fatma G. Eroglu , Songül Kaya , Alexander E. Labovsky

Consideration is given to three different full dispersion Boussinesq systems arising as asymptotic models in the bi-directional propagation of weakly nonlinear surface waves in shallow water. We prove that, under a non-cavitation condition…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-03-28 Martin Oen Paulsen

In the presented study, a numerical model which predicts the flow-induced collapse within the pharyngeal airway is validated using in vitro measurements. Theoretical simplifications were considered to limit the computation time. Systematic…

Medical Physics · Physics 2008-11-27 Franz Chouly , Annemie Van Hirtum , Pierre-Yves Lagrée , Xavier Pelorson , Yohan Payan

In recent years, there has been an increasing research interest in the application of remote sensing technology to highly aerated flows, which is because this technology holds the ultimate promise to enable safe and accurate measurements of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-08-19 Matthias Kramer , Daniel B. Bung

This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-12-02 Jinghua Wang

We report on the scattering of a plane wave from a vertically oscillating plate in the low frequency approximation by means of Floquet theory. In the case of a static plate, the scattering coefficients are evaluated via mode matching method…

Classical Physics · Physics 2024-12-02 Magdalini Koukouraki , Philippe Petitjeans , Agnès Maurel , Vincent Pagneux

We study the flow of water waves over bathymetry that varies periodically along one direction. We derive a linearized, homogenized model and show that the periodic bathymetry induces an effective dispersion, distinct from the dispersion…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-07-01 Manuel Quezada de Luna , David I. Ketcheson
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