Related papers: Palm distributions of wave characteristics in enco…
For any kind of wave phenomenon one can find ways to derive the respective dispersion relation from experimental observations and measurements. This dispersion relation determines the structure of the wave equation and thus characterizes…
We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…
The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…
This tutorial provides an introduction to Palm distributions for spatial point processes. Initially, in the context of finite point processes , we give an explicit definition of Palm distributions in terms of their density functions. Then…
Large arrays of wave-absorbing structures could serve the double objective of coastal protection against erosion and clean, renewable electrical power production. In this work, the principle of an artificial canopy is explored, which…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
Waves traveling through random media exhibit random focusing that leads to extremely high wave intensities even in the absence of nonlinearities. Although such extreme events are present in a wide variety of physical systems and the…
A new model other than the classical ones given by Airy, Stokes and Gerstner for the ocean surface wave is constructed. It leads to new understandings for the wave mechanisms: (1) A wave with bigger amplitude or smaller steepness travels…
This work deals with the sensitivity to the plate roughness of Lamb waves. An experimental study is performed involving an air-coupling transducer system. Signal processing allows us to extract the Lamb waves characteristics: phase velocity…
A spectrogram of a ship wake is a heat map that visualises the time-dependent frequency spectrum of surface height measurements taken at a single point as the ship travels by. Spectrograms are easy to compute and, if properly interpreted,…
This paper discusses some aspects referring to the characterization and modelling of the resilience of distribution systems in the presence of heat waves. The aim is to identify the specific features that can lead to more detailed modelling…
Waves of various types carry momentum, which is associated with their propagation direction, i.e., the phase gradient. The circulation of the wave momentum density gives rise to orbital angular momentum (AM). Additionally, for waves…
An experimental model of transmission of ocean waves by an ice floe is presented. Thin plastic plates with different material properties and thicknesses are used to model the floe. Regular incident waves with different periods and…
Waves propagate through disordered systems in a variety of regimes. There is a threshold of disorder beyond which waves become localized and transport becomes restricted. The intensity I of the wave transmitted through a system has a…
Effects of wave-wave interactions on ocean swell are studied. Results of extensive simulations of swell evolution within the duration-limited setup for the kinetic Hasselmann equation at long times up to $10^6$ seconds are presented. Basic…
Spectrograms provide an efficient way to analyse surface elevation signals of ship waves taken from a sensor fixed at a single point in space. Recent work based on a simplified model for the ship's disturbance suggests that matching the…
We study the properties of mode-mode interactions for waves propagating in nonlinear disordered one-dimensional systems. We focus on i) the localization volume of a mode which defines the number of interacting partner modes, ii) the overlap…
The distributions of the angular transmission coefficient and of the total transmission are calculated for multiple scattered waves. The calculation is based on a mapping to the distribution of eigenvalues of the transmission matrix. The…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
Here to represent the propagation of waves I attempted to describe them separately in space and time domains. The time and space wave equations are obtained and investigated, and formulas for the wave propagation are expressed. I also tried…