Related papers: Run Up of Surface and Internal Waves
The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…
Internal waves, or waves that propagate within a stratified fluid, may break and cause mixing. While each individual mixing event may be small, collectively, internal wave breaking drive processes in the ocean that are critical to…
The physics of swash i.e. a layer of water that washes up on the beach after an incoming wave has broken is complicated and intriguing. It includes perplexed hydrodynamic and sediment transport events. In our paper we address to the…
Until now the analysis of long wave runup on a plane beach has been focused on finding its maximum value, failing to capture the existence of resonant regimes. One-dimensional numerical simulations in the framework of the Nonlinear Shallow…
The problem of the sea wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. Key and novel moment here is the accounting of the asymmetric waves when the face slope steepness…
The present study focuses on direct numerical simulations of breaking waves generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The aim is to quantify the dynamics and kinematics in the breaking process, together with the air entrainment…
Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies a significant increase in run-up…
The behaviour of internal waves propagating in a background shear flow is studied in the case where the direction of shear is orthogonal to gravity. Ray-tracing theory is used to predict properties of the wave state at locations where…
The interaction of surface waves with Couette-type current with uniform vorticity is a well suited problem for students approaching the theory of surface waves. The problem, although mathematically simple, contains rich physics, and is…
The propagation of focused wave groups in intermediate water depth and the shoaling zone is experimentally and numerically considered in this paper. The experiments are carried out in a two-dimensional wave flume and wave trains derived…
Wave impact and run-up onto vertical obstacles are among the most important phenomena which must be taken into account in the design of coastal structures. From linear wave theory, we know that the wave amplitude on a vertical wall is twice…
We study the propagation of monochromatic surface waves on a turbulent flow. The flow is generated in a layer of liquid metal by an electromagnetic forcing. This forcing creates a quasi two-dimensional (2D) turbulence with strong vertical…
A parabolic equation for the propagation of periodic internal waves over varying bottom topography is derived using the multiple-scale perturbation method. Some computational aspects of the numerical implementation are discussed. The…
In current scientific and technological scenario, studies of transmittance of surface waves across structured interfaces have gained some wind amidst applications to metasurfaces, electronic edge-waves, crystal grain boundaries, etc. The…
The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…
We study long surface and internal ring waves propagating in a stratified fluid over a parallel shear flow. The far-field modal and amplitude equations for the ring waves are presented in dimensional form. We re-derive them from the…
We investigate the energy growth and dissipation of wind-forced breaking waves at high wind speed using direct numerical simulations of the coupled air-water Navier-Stokes equations. A turbulent wind boundary layer drives the growth of a…
The problem of tsunami wave shoaling and runup in U-shaped bays (such as fjords) and underwater canyons is studied in the framework of shallow water theory. The wave shoaling in bays, when the depth varies smoothly along the channel axis,…
By "surface waves" one means a special kind of waves that propagate at the interface between two different media. There exists a large variety of such waves, which are interesting on their own, and sometimes have also practical importance…
Internal waves propagate on the ocean's stratification, carrying energy and redistributing momentum through the ocean. When internal waves break, they contribute to diapycnal mixing in the ocean interior, but this breaking behaviour depends…