Related papers: Long wave expansions for water waves over random t…
In this chapter, we illustrate the advantage of variational principles for modeling water waves from an elementary practical viewpoint. The method is based on a `relaxed' variational principle, i.e., on a Lagrangian involving as many…
We present laboratory experiments of surface wave turbulence excited by paddles in the deep water regime. The free surface is seeded with buoyant particles that are advected and dispersed by the flow. Positions and velocities of the…
We study the propagation of surface waves across structured surfaces with random, localized inhomogeneities. A discrete analogue of Gurtin-Murdoch model is employed and surface elasticity, in contrast to bulk elasticity, is captured by…
This paper studies periodic traveling gravity waves at the free surface of water in a flow of constant vorticity over a flat bed. Using conformal mappings the free-boundary problem is transformed into a quasilinear pseudodifferential…
We consider a suspension of active rigid particles (swimmers) in a steady Stokes flow, where particles are distributed according to a stationary ergodic random process, and we study its homogenization in the macroscopic limit. A key point…
We study the evolution of nonlinear surface gravity water-wave packets developing from modulational instability over an uneven bottom. A nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation (NLSE) with coefficients varying in space along propagation is used as…
In the paper a new nonlinear equation describing shallow water waves with the topography of the bottom directly taken into account is derived. This equation is valid in the weakly nonlinear, dispersive and long wavelength limit. Some…
We consider a linear system of differential equations describing a joint motion of elastic porous body and fluid occupying porous space. The rigorous justification, under various conditions imposed on physical parameters, is fulfilled for…
A computational strategy based on large deviation theory (LDT) is used to study the anomalous statistical features of turbulent surface waves propagating past an abrupt depth change created via a step in the bottom topography. The dynamics…
The oscillatory flow around a spherical object lying on a rough bottom is investigated by means of direct numerical simulations of continuity and Navier-Stokes equations. The rough bottom is simulated by a layer/multiple layers of spherical…
It is shown that spatially periodic one-dimensional surface waves in shallow water behave almost linearly, provided large part of the energy is contained in sufficiently high frequencies. The amplitude is not required to be small (apart…
We study the effect of turbulence on a sedimenting layer of particles by means of direct numerical simulations. A Lagrangian model in which particles are considered as tracers with an additional downward settling velocity is integrated…
We study the flow of water waves over bathymetry that varies periodically along one direction. We derive a linearized, homogenized model and show that the periodic bathymetry induces an effective dispersion, distinct from the dispersion…
In this paper, we develop a computational multiscale to solve the parabolic wave approximation with heterogeneous and variable media. Parabolic wave approximation is a technique to approximate the full wave equation. One benefit of the…
We give a detailed analysis of long range cumulative scattering effects from rough boundaries in waveguides. We assume small random fluctuations of the boundaries and obtain a quantitative statistical description of the wave field. The…
This paper describes the results from a numerical estimation of the force exerted by long surface waves on a fixed and partially immersed rectangular structure. The topic is connected with the need of making decisions on the design,…
Acoustic shock and acceleration waves in inhomogeneous fluids are investigated using both analytical and numerical methods. In the context of start-up signaling problems, and based on linear acoustics theory, we study the propagation of…
The theory of motion of edges of dispersive shock waves generated after wave breaking of simple waves is developed. It is shown that this motion obeys Hamiltonian mechanics complemented by a Hopf-like equation for evolution of the…
We consider a shallow water model in a homogenization framework. For periodic topographies, Craig, Lannes and Sulem have established a consistency result under some non-resonance conditions. In the present contribution, we significantly…
Numerical simulations of the unidirectional random waves are performed within the Korteweg -de Vries equation to investigate the statistical properties of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Nonlinear evolution shows the relaxation of…