Classical Physics
Recently, Dyachenko & Zakharov (2011) have derived a compact form of the well known Zakharov integro-differential equation for the third order Hamiltonian dynamics of a potential flow of an incompressible, infinitely deep fluid with a free…
In the present study, we propose a modified version of the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (Saint-Venant or NSWE) for irrotational surface waves in the case when the bottom undergoes some significant variations in space and time. The…
Surface water waves in ideal fluids have been typically modeled by asymptotic approximations of the full Euler equations. Some of these simplified models lose relevant properties of the full water wave problem. One of them is the Galilean…
Consideration is given to the influence of an underwater landslide on waves at the surface of a shallow body of fluid. The equations of motion which govern the evolution of the barycenter of the landslide mass include various dissipative…
The spatial Dysthe equations describe the envelope evolution of the free-surface and potential of gravity waves in deep waters. Their Hamiltonian structure and new invariants are unveiled by means of a gauge transformation to a new…
The estimation of the maximum wave sunup height is a problem of practical importance. Most of the analytical and numerical studies are limited to a constant slope plain shore and to the classical Nonlinear Shallow Water (NSW) equations.…
Until now the analysis of long wave runup on a plane beach has been focused on finding its maximum value, failing to capture the existence of resonant regimes. One-dimensional numerical simulations in the framework of the Nonlinear Shallow…
The water wave theory traditionally assumes the fluid to be perfect, thus neglecting all effects of the viscosity. However, the explanation of several experimental data sets requires the explicit inclusion of dissipative effects. In order…
In this study, we propose an improved version of the nonlinear shallow water (or Saint-Venant) equations. This new model is designed to take into account the effects resulting from the large spacial and/or temporal variations of the seabed.…
Historically the finite volume methods have been developed for the numerical integration of conservation laws. In this study we present some recent results on the application of such schemes to dispersive PDEs. Namely, we solve numerically…
Finite volume schemes are commonly used to construct approximate solutions to conservation laws. In this study we extend the framework of the finite volume methods to dispersive water wave models, in particular to Boussinesq type systems.…
A novel tool for tsunami wave modelling is presented. This tool has the potential of being used for operational purposes: indeed, the numerical code \VOLNA is able to handle the complete life-cycle of a tsunami (generation, propagation and…
This paper describes a method for deriving approximate equations for irrotational water waves. The method is based on a 'relaxed' variational principle, i.e., on a Lagrangian involving as many variables as possible. This formulation is…
In the present study we investigate analytically the process of velocity and energy relaxation in two-phase flows. We begin our exposition by considering the so-called six equations two-phase model [Ishii1975, Rovarch2006]. This model…
In the present study we discuss several modeling issues of powder-snow avalanche flows. We take a two-fluid modeling paradigm. For the sake of simplicity, we will restrict our attention to barotropic equations. We begin the exposition by a…
The classical dam break problem has become the de facto standard in validating the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE) solvers. Moreover, the NSWE are widely used for flooding simulations. While applied mathematics community is…
Water wave propagation can be attenuated by various physical mechanisms. One of the main sources of wave energy dissipation lies in boundary layers. The present work is entirely devoted to thorough analysis of the dispersion relation of the…
In the study of ocean wave impact on structures, one often uses Froude scaling since the dominant force is gravity. However the presence of trapped or entrained air in the water can significantly modify wave impacts. When air is entrained…
In the study of ocean wave impact on structures, one often uses Froude scaling since the dominant force is gravity. However the presence of trapped or entrained air in the water can significantly modify wave impacts. When air is entrained…
In this paper, the Q-factor expression for periodic arrays over a ground plane is determined in terms of the electric current density within the array's unit cell. The expression accounts for the exact shape of the array element. The…