English

Tunamis on a deep open sea and on a sloping beach -- a mathematical theory

Analysis of PDEs 2026-04-22 v7 Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics

Abstract

Approaching a sloping beach, shallow water surface waves of Airy get suddenly + +\infty or -\infty propagation speed at the point of surface x=x0x = x_0, say, where the tangent Γx\varGamma_x of the surface y=Γy = \varGamma "coincide" with that bxb_x of the water-bottom y=b(x)y = b(x), losing the cruising sound speed of propagation so high on a deep open sea. That is, the tunamis gain instantaneously a + +\infty propagation speed just before the crest as (Γxbx)(x)+0(\varGamma_x - b_x)(x) \to +0, xx0 ⁣ ⁣0x \to x_0\!-\!0 , and a -\infty propagation speed just after the trough as (Γxbx)(x)0(\varGamma_x - b_x)(x) \to -0, xx0 ⁣ ⁣0x \to x_0\!-\!0. We would have thus a big crush between the crest rushing forward and the trough rushing backward. This is a mathematical structure of tunamis "on" a sloping beach, in particular.

Keywords

Cite

@article{arxiv.2409.17269,
  title  = {Tunamis on a deep open sea and on a sloping beach -- a mathematical theory},
  author = {Tadayoshi Kano},
  journal= {arXiv preprint arXiv:2409.17269},
  year   = {2026}
}