Tunamis on a deep open sea and on a sloping beach -- a mathematical theory
Analysis of PDEs
2026-04-22 v7 Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics
Abstract
Approaching a sloping beach, shallow water surface waves of Airy get suddenly or propagation speed at the point of surface , say, where the tangent of the surface "coincide" with that of the water-bottom , losing the cruising sound speed of propagation so high on a deep open sea. That is, the tunamis gain instantaneously a propagation speed just before the crest as , , and a propagation speed just after the trough as , . We would have thus a big crush between the crest rushing forward and the trough rushing backward. This is a mathematical structure of tunamis "on" a sloping beach, in particular.
Cite
@article{arxiv.2409.17269,
title = {Tunamis on a deep open sea and on a sloping beach -- a mathematical theory},
author = {Tadayoshi Kano},
journal= {arXiv preprint arXiv:2409.17269},
year = {2026}
}